The cover story was featured in the 14th issue of “Oriental Collections” magazine, published in February+March 2015.

Zhang Pengcheng

Host of the Eastern Collection Network Auction Channel

“Diamonds are forever—forever and ever,” a slogan from De Beers, the jewelry giant, dating back to 1951. At the time, it was an enormous success in the U.S. and helped successfully open up the Chinese market. Since then, Western diamond rings have become deeply ingrained in people’s minds as a symbol of eternal love, making them an indispensable part of wedding ceremonies for Chinese couples. As people’s living standards continue to rise, the demand for diamonds has gradually become more diversified. Today, let’s talk about the most sought-after type of diamond: white diamonds—colorless, transparent diamonds.

What is a diamond?

In middle-school chemistry class, we learned about diamonds, whose primary component is carbon (C). Diamonds are formed under high temperature and high pressure conditions as a result of geological processes. They are the only gemstone composed of a single element. Their density is 3.52 g/cm³, their refractive index is 2.417 (at a wavelength of 500 nanometers), and their dispersion is 0.044. Diamonds exhibit a brilliant, diamond-like luster and possess the highest hardness found in nature—10 on the Mohs scale—and also have extremely high thermal conductivity.

As early as the 14th century, people began to cut and polish diamonds before setting them in jewelry. In pursuit of the dazzling brilliance and fire of diamonds, cutting techniques have continually evolved, eventually giving rise to today’s standard cut. A standard-cut white round diamond should have between 57 and 58 facets—where the 58th facet is achieved by further polishing the culet (the pointed base) on top of the original 57 facets.

How to tell the real from the fake

When purchasing, how can you distinguish between genuine and counterfeit items without the aid of professional instruments? Here are a few simple methods for you:

01 Touch with hand

Because diamonds are oil-loving, they feel slightly sticky when touched and don't slip easily, whereas imitation diamonds have a smooth, slippery sensation.

02 Blow on your hands

Diamonds have relatively high thermal conductivity. If you gently breathe on a diamond, the fog on its surface will immediately disappear, whereas a simulated diamond will retain the fog for a longer period.

03 Underlining Method

Use an oil-based pen to draw lines on the tabletop (the largest surface of the crown). The oil lines imitating diamonds will appear intermittent or in the form of floating droplets.

04 Perspective

Diamonds have a high refractive index, which gives them strong light-reflection capabilities but low transparency. If you draw horizontal lines on a piece of paper, place the pointed end of a diamond atop these lines, and then observe directly with the naked eye: if you can see the lines beneath the diamond, then it’s not a natural diamond.

05 Magnifying Glass Observation Method

Use a 10x magnifying glass to examine the surface of a diamond. Because diamonds are extremely hard, the edges where facets intersect should appear sharp and well-defined. In contrast, imitation diamonds will have rounded, blunt edges, and may even show signs of wear. You can also inspect the girdle: a genuine diamond will have a grainy appearance; if you notice fine, linear patterns instead, then it’s likely an imitation.

06 View the certificate

The vast majority of diamonds on the market come with certificates, and you can also ask the seller to support a re-inspection. There are many types of diamond certificates available; among those commonly found in China, the most prevalent are GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and NGTC (National Gem & Jewelry Quality Supervision and Inspection Center). Other notable certificates include EGL (European Gemological Laboratory), HRD (High Council for Diamonds in Belgium), AGS (American Gem Society), and IGI (International Gemological Institute). As far as diamonds are concerned, the GIA certificate enjoys widespread recognition in the market. Under the same specifications, diamonds accompanied by a GIA certificate tend to be priced slightly higher than those with other certificates.

The standard for diamonds

When it comes to diamond standards, everyone thinks of the 4C standard. The 4C standard refers to four key characteristics of diamonds:

The abbreviations for the English words of Weight (Carat Weight), Clarity, Colour, and Cut. After years of marketing and the widespread adoption of the internet, most people are now familiar with them.

01 Weight Carat Weight

1 carat equals 0.2 grams. One carat is further divided into 100 points. As the weight increases, the price rises exponentially. Diamonds weighing several carats or more become extremely rare and virtually impossible to find.

02 Clarity

From FL and IF (labeled LC in the national inspection standards) to I (labeled P in the national inspection standards)—that is, from flawless grade to industrial grade—there are six intermediate grades: VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, and SI2. In fact, even the industrial grade can be further subdivided; however, these grades are generally not suitable for setting in jewelry and will therefore not be discussed here. Since clarity is assessed by inspectors using a 10x magnifying glass and relying on manual inspection, my personal recommendation when selecting diamonds is to opt for clarity grades of SI1 or higher. If you’re purchasing diamonds as an investment, it’s best to choose those with clarity grades of IF or VVS.

03 Color

From D color to Z color, and after the I-J color range, a faint yellowish tint becomes visible to the naked eye. The grading of diamond color is performed by gemologists who compare diamonds against master stones. However, since color assessment is subjective and relies on human perception, different certificates may differ by up to one grade—this discrepancy is entirely acceptable. When selecting a diamond for personal wear, it’s best to choose one that fits your budget. Without direct comparison—and given the dazzling fire and brilliance of diamonds that tend to mask subtle color differences—it’s actually quite difficult for most people to distinguish between color grades. Therefore, unless you’re purchasing a diamond purely as an investment, there’s no need to blindly pursue diamonds with the highest color grades. With the growing popularity of colored diamonds, some unscrupulous sellers have begun passing off white diamonds in the K-Z range as yellow-colored diamonds. If you’re buying colored diamonds, be extra vigilant and cautious.

04 Cut

As the only human factor among the four major criteria, the quality of the cut determines a diamond’s brilliance and fire. Its grades range from high to low:

Rated as Excellent (extremely excellent), Very Good (very good), Good (good), Fair (fairly acceptable), or Poor (not very good). Personally, I’d recommend not skimping on this aspect—though VG is certainly a great, cost-effective choice as well.

In addition to the well-known 4Cs, there are other parameter standards that also affect the price of diamonds.

05 Finish Modifier

Below are two parameters: Polish and Symmetry, both rated as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor. Good polish enhances the diamond’s brilliance, while good cutting ensures that the diamond achieves symmetry. Combined with the perfect cut mentioned earlier, this is what is commonly referred to as the 3EX cut.

06 Fluorescence

Fluorescence in diamonds is a natural phenomenon, categorized into five levels based on intensity: None (no fluorescence), Faint (slight), Medium (moderate), Strong (strong), and Very Strong (very strong). Since this is a natural characteristic and does not affect the diamond’s quality, diamonds with strong fluorescence may fetch a slightly lower price than those without fluorescence. However, fluorescence is not the same as radiation; you can rest assured when selecting a diamond. If you plan to wear it yourself, you can choose according to your budget. But if you’re considering it as an investment, we recommend opting for diamonds with no fluorescence whenever possible.

Let’s talk about alien drills.

The round brilliant cut is widely recognized as the cutting style that best showcases a diamond’s beauty and perfectly highlights its fire and brilliance. However, to maximize the use of rough diamond material while also pursuing aesthetically pleasing designs and demonstrating advanced cutting techniques, people have also adopted many other unconventional cutting styles.

The diamonds that are cut in this way are collectively referred to as fancy-shaped diamonds.

Today, there are generally more than ten recognized fancy-shaped diamonds, including pear-shaped, emerald-cut, princess-cut, rectangular, oval, triangular, radiant-cut, egg-shaped, and pear-shaped diamonds. Like round white diamonds, white fancy-shaped diamonds are also evaluated using a set of identical grading standards. However, since fancy cuts often vary from one manufacturer to another and lack uniformity in standards, GIA’s grading for fancy-shaped diamonds focuses solely on polish and symmetry, without assigning a cut grade.

Diamonds of large carat weight available on the market are typically cut into fancy shapes in order to make the most efficient use of the rough diamond material. Their prices can often be astonishingly high. However, when it comes to choosing a diamond for everyday wear, diamonds of the same specifications generally cost less if they’re cut into fancy shapes rather than standard round cuts.

Diamonds are forever, and love runs deep—but when making a purchase, be sure to act within your means and avoid comparing yourself to others. After all, they’re the icing on the cake, aren’t they?

TIPS identification method

Even with a certificate, many people still aren’t entirely confident. In such cases, you can ask the seller to help you locate the laser inscription on the diamond’s girdle and compare it with the certificate’s code. Additionally, you can verify the authenticity of the certificate by checking its validity on GIA’s website.

This method is applicable to GIA certificates.

Some diamonds don't have laser-inscribed codes on their girdles to avoid compromising their fire and brilliance. In such cases, you’ll need to consult a professional and compare the diamond with the “flaw reference chart” provided in the certificate, as these flaws are natural and unique to each stone. We also recommend purchasing from reputable, responsible retailers who are dedicated to quality and authenticity.

Although diamonds are incredibly hard, they still require careful handling when worn. Avoid subjecting them to strong impacts, as both the diamond itself and the setting could be affected.

Diamonds are oil-loving, so after wearing them for a while, simply wipe them gently with a soft cloth. If you notice that the surface of a diamond appears “fuzzy” or “hazy” when you first buy it, be cautious. If the haze persists even after wiping it clean, it could be what the industry calls a “milky diamond.” The GIA’s grading does not include this characteristic; yet even if such a diamond boasts a high color grade and exceptional clarity, its “hazy beauty” can significantly reduce its market value.

Diamonds are best stored in a ring box and should not be mixed with other jewelry to prevent scratching other pieces.

Although diamonds are formed under high temperature and pressure, their ignition point in the atmosphere is only slightly over 800 degrees Celsius. Don’t even think about trying it—curiosity killed the cat!