01 Identification of Mahogany Furniture and Mahogany Species
 
Redwood furniture is internationally renowned for its dignified color, exquisite and beautiful grain patterns, hard and heavy wood texture, and exceptional durability. The authentic redwood is zitan wood, which boasts the highest quality; it typically has a reddish hue, a hard and heavy wood structure, fine and dense grain, and an oily feel. Nowadays, the redwood used for furniture making mostly includes chicken-wing wood, rosewood, hongmu (fragrant redwood), and other varieties. These woods also fall under the category of mahogany.

1 Chicken-branch wood: This wood is exceptionally hard and exudes a deep, dignified character. Its wood grain is distinct and clear, and the finished product has a smooth, lustrous surface. Its color closely resembles that of aged mahogany, making it a premium grade within the mahogany family.

2 Rosewood: Its wood hardness is slightly lower than that of chicken rosewood, but it shares the same advantages—such as a deep, dignified tone, distinct wood grain, smooth and lustrous finished products, and a color closely resembling that of aged mahogany.

3 Rosewood: The wood is hard and heavy, with clear grain patterns, though its color is relatively light. It’s also considered one of the finest varieties within the redwood family.

4 Rosewood: Abundantly found in Brazil, it has a distinctive fragrance, but its color and hardness are both inferior to those of the aforementioned varieties, making it a lower-grade type of rosewood.

The identification of mahogany furniture primarily depends on its wood structure and weight.

1 1. Examine whether the wood structure exhibits the characteristics of mahogany described above—that is, whether the wood itself displays a variety of natural hues such as purplish-red, yellowish-red, scarlet, or deep red; whether the wood grain is simple yet beautiful, elegant and fresh; and whether the grain remains clearly visible even after the wood has been varnished. In contrast, counterfeit mahogany products, once painted, typically have a thick, solid color with frequent white undertones and lack any discernible grain pattern.

2 Look at the weight. Genuine mahogany furniture is sturdy and solid, with a particularly dense texture that’s heavier than ordinary ash wood. For furniture of the same style and size, fake mahogany pieces will noticeably weigh less than the genuine ones.

3 Check whether the furniture is made entirely of solid mahogany or merely mahogany veneer. Some products claim to be made of mahogany, but upon closer inspection, you’ll find that they’re actually made by slicing mahogany into thin sheets and adhering them to the surface of other types of wood—these are not genuine solid-mahogany pieces.

4 When purchasing rosewood furniture, it’s best to go to reputable, well-established furniture stores with high credit ratings. Be sure to check whether the materials and varnishes indicated on the product labels match those used in the finished product, and take the time to ask detailed questions and carefully verify the information to avoid making a wrong purchase and incurring unnecessary losses.

02 — Identification of Mahogany Species

1 The ultimate wood—Small-leaf rosewood: In fact, rosewood comes in many varieties, just like mahogany—so if you’re not careful, you could easily be misled. According to “Chinese Tree Taxonomy,” rosewood is classified as... The genus Dalbergia belongs to the legume family and comprises about fifteen species. However, in the strictest sense, there is only one true species of rosewood—what we commonly refer to as “small-leaf rosewood.” Small-leaf rosewood is a plant belonging to the Dalbergia genus within the legume family; among them, Indian rosewood is considered the finest variety. The earliest recorded mention of rosewood appears in Cui Bao’s “Ancient and Modern Notes” from the Jin Dynasty, where it was referred to as “purple sandalwood, originating from Funan, with a purple hue, also known as zitan. Rosewood takes at least a thousand years to mature, and it is often said that ‘nine out of ten pieces are hollow.’ The largest diameter of a rosewood log is only around twenty centimeters, making its value truly remarkable. Among all hardwoods, rosewood boasts the densest texture, the heaviest weight, and sinks immediately when placed in water. The grain of small-leaf rosewood is not very distinct; initially, its color is orange-red, but over time it deepens into a rich, lacquer-like purple, with annual growth rings almost invisible. Its vascular patterns are extremely fine, resembling twisted silk fibers akin to cow hair. Moreover, small-leaf rosewood is also a prized medicinal herb. As recorded in “Compendium of Materia Medica,” rosewood can stop bleeding, relieve pain, and regulate qi and blood circulation. The character “zi” (purple) symbolizes auspiciousness. Coupled with rosewood’s uniquely superior wood qualities and its extreme rarity, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, rosewood was highly treasured by the imperial court. Emperors of both dynasties spared no expense, gathering the finest artisans from across the empire to craft exquisite rosewood furniture and decorative objects. Such items were already considered the epitome of luxury in their time—and how much more so today! All these factors seem to have shrouded rosewood in an even greater aura of mystery. In fact, Europeans and Americans place even greater importance on rosewood than we do in China. It is said that Napoleon’s tomb features a 15-centimeter-long model of a rosewood coffin, which astonishes and inspires envy among visitors who marvel at its rarity. Thus, the saying “every inch of rosewood is worth its weight in gold” is by no means an exaggeration. If you place small-leaf rosewood flower petals into white liquor, the petals will immediately dissolve into a pink powder and form a thick, gelatinous substance that clings to the liquid. When poured, this mixture will flow smoothly in a continuous stream. This is an effective method for identifying genuine rosewood.

2 The “Gentleman of the Wood”—Huanghuali. Huanghuali, also known as Hualu, features wood grain that resembles ghostly faces or leopard spots; hence it’s also called “…” “Flower civet.” It grows best in Hainan, China, which is why it’s also known as “Hainan Huanghuali.” Huanghuali belongs to the genus Dalbergia within the subfamily Faboideae of the legume family. During the Ming and early Qing dynasties, it was the primary material used for crafting exquisite furniture. Huanghuali boasts a dense, solid wood texture with colors ranging from pale yellow to purplish-red—vividly hued, with clear grain patterns and a delightful fragrance that fills the air when sawn or planed. The knots in its wood form circular, coin-like patterns, strikingly colorful and beautifully detailed, making it ideal for crafting furniture and stationery items. In Ming-style furniture, Huanghuali is the material of choice. Although its color isn’t as brilliant as that of zitan, it possesses a subtle yet elegant beauty: its grain alternates between being subtly visible and faintly concealed, neither overly quiet nor overly ostentatious, and its texture is warm and smooth. For this reason, it’s often referred to as the “gentleman among woods.” These distinctive qualities of Huanghuali are frequently exploited and highlighted by artisans during the crafting process. Typically, they opt for a plain, unadorned finish, allowing the natural beauty of the wood’s grain to shine through, thereby imparting a sense of tranquility and softness.

3 In Chapter 29 of the book “A Guide to Antiques,” the author states: “The term ‘red wood’ as commonly used by the lay public refers specifically to a particular type of wood—it does not literally mean ‘red wood.’” Among woods of exceptional quality, aside from rosewood, red sandalwood ranks foremost—this is the assessment given to old red sandalwood in the book. Nowadays, people add the word “old” precisely to distinguish it from what we now call “red sandalwood.” In Guangdong, old red sandalwood is often referred to as red acidwood; north of the Yangtze River, it’s known simply as old red sandalwood. (In fact, according to today’s classification, old red sandalwood is merely one variety within the broader category of red acidwood—and they shouldn’t be confused with each other. For now, we’ll refrain from going into detailed comparisons.) Like Huanghuali, it belongs to the subfamily Faboideae within the legume family, genus Dalbergia. Its wood texture and color closely resemble those of small-leaf rosewood; its annual growth rings are straight and fibrous, its pore patterns are larger than those of rosewood, and its color is similar to a reddish-brown date hue. The wood is hard and fine-grained, capable of sinking in water. Typically, it takes more than 500 years for such wood to reach maturity and become suitable for use. What sets it apart most distinctly from other woods is that its grain pattern, amidst the deep red background, often features dark brown or even black stripes, lending it an antique, time-honored charm. The craftsmanship required for making furniture from this wood should mirror that used for rosewood: the final step involves applying a uniformly blended base coat followed by waxing. Under no circumstances should the conventional method used for ordinary hardwoods—applying lacquer—be employed. This is because old red sandalwood is rich in natural waxes; all that’s needed is polishing and waxing to achieve a smooth, lustrous finish that endures over time, exuding a subtle, refined beauty. If modern lacquering techniques were applied instead, they would only mask the wood’s inherent excellence and the natural elegance of its grain. Moreover, when old red sandalwood is treated with lacquer, some manufacturers might take advantage of this to mix in other types of wood, making it easier for them to pass off inferior materials as high-quality ones. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, old red sandalwood, along with small-leaf rosewood and Huanghuali, was collectively known as the “Three Tribute Woods” reserved exclusively for imperial use.

4 Large-leaf rosewood, also known as rosewood or African rosewood, is primarily found in Africa. Compared to small-leaf rosewood, large-leaf rosewood has coarser grain patterns, a purplish-brown color, wider brown stripes, and thick, straight vessel markings. After polishing, its surface reveals distinct, palm-like vessel pores. While its grain isn't as refined as that of old red wood, it nonetheless belongs to the Dalbergia genus and shares many similarities with small-leaf rosewood. Moreover, being an extremely rare wood species, its price has consistently remained higher than that of old red wood.

5 White rosewood—People have become accustomed to categorizing rosewood into three types: red rosewood, black rosewood, and white rosewood. White rosewood originates from Myanmar. It lacks the deep reddish hue of red rosewood and isn’t as oily as red rosewood. After processing, it bears some resemblance to grass rosewood; however, merchants aren’t foolish enough yet to pass off white rosewood as rosewood, because the price of white rosewood is significantly higher than that of rosewood.

6 — Grass Rosewood, also known today as “Rosewood.” The emergence of "caohuali" wood was due to the scarcity of huanghuali wood; it appeared on the market from the late Qing Dynasty through the Republic of China period as a substitute. Caohuali comes in two color varieties: reddish-yellow and red. Its wood is relatively soft, with clearly visible brown pores and a striped grain pattern. Its overall appearance is far inferior to that of huanghuali.

7 Chicken-wing wood, also known as "chick-duck wood." Also known as “Qizimu wood,” its wood grain closely resembles the wings of a chicken, hence the name. According to “Chinese Tree Taxonomy”: “The genus Pterocarpus includes about forty species, of which twenty-six grow in China.” Thus, it’s clear that today’s furniture made from Pterocarpus wood does not all come from the same species. There’s also a distinction between “old” and “new” Pterocarpus wood: the older wood features a fine texture with alternating shades of purplish-brown, resembling crab claw patterns that, upon close inspection, truly resemble chicken wings—especially when viewed in a tangential cut, where the wood grain appears delicate, subtly shifting and endlessly varied, naturally forming intricate landscapes and scenic motifs. In contrast, the newer wood has a coarser texture, its grain is murky and indistinct, dry and lacking luster, and it’s prone to warping, cracking, and developing rough edges. The genuine old Pterocarpus wood has long since disappeared; what we see today are mainly new varieties sourced from Fujian Province as well as Southeast Asia, South Asia, Africa, and other regions. Their prices are comparable to those of Dalbergia odorifera (grass rosewood).

8 Other (1) Ebony: The term "ying," meaning "tree burl or root growth," is described in the "Ge Gu Yao Lun" as not referring to a specific tree species, but rather to wood from the root or trunk areas where abnormal growths—burls—have formed. The wood from these burl formations features unique grain patterns and an extraordinary aesthetic appeal, making it highly prized throughout history. Ying wood is typically used for tabletop center panels; for instance, a desk with an exquisitely framed surface paired with a naturally intriguing ying wood center panel would be exceptionally elegant and innovative. Large pieces of ying wood are exceedingly rare, and in the antique furniture we see today, ying wood is usually employed only as inlaid panels. (2) Jin Si Nan Mu: Frequently mentioned in Ming Dynasty literature, this is a high-grade timber reputed to be impervious to water and unpenetrable by ants. Its color is light orange-yellow with a hint of gray; its grain is refined and tranquil, its texture warm and gentle, and it exhibits no shrinkage. When exposed to rain, it emits a subtle, lingering fragrance. Beams and rafters in palaces and other important buildings were invariably made of nan mu wood. During the Ming Dynasty, the imperial court extensively harvested this timber. Today, many of Beijing’s Forbidden City and other prestigious historic structures in the capital are constructed from nan mu wood. Nan mu wood is resistant to decay and insect infestation, and it exudes a delicate fragrance. Royal libraries, gilded thrones, and interior furnishings were often crafted from nan mu wood. Significant buildings such as the Wenyuan Pavilion, Le Shou Hall, the Hall of Supreme Harmony, and the Changling Mausoleum all feature nan mu wood decorations and furniture. Nan mu grows slowly, with straight trunks reaching heights between 10 and 40 meters and diameters ranging from 50 to 100 centimeters. Over 30 species of nan mu trees have been identified south of the Yangtze River, with the finest specimens found in the southwest region—especially in Hainan. Nan mu is remarkably resistant to decay and is often used for construction materials or shipbuilding. It dries easily and maintains stable wood properties, making it less prone to cracking. With its fine grain, nan mu develops a captivating luster when polished, earning it the nickname "Jin Si Nan Mu"—"golden-thread nan mu." In fact, Jin Si Nan Mu is merely one variety within the broader category of nan mu wood. As recorded in the "Bo Wu Yao Lan": "There are three types of nan mu: the first is Xiang Nan, also known as Zi Nan; the second is Jin Si Nan; and the third is Shui Nan." Although nan mu is indeed a highly prized wood, it ranks among the softer woods used in classical furniture making. Moreover, nan mu differs significantly in character from zitan wood; as the saying goes, "every inch has its strength, every foot has its weakness," so the two cannot be compared directly.

    03 Common Sense for Identifying Mahogany

　　◆Material Identification: “Redwood” does not refer to a specific type of wood; rather, it is a general term for certain hardwoods that exhibit a purplish-red hue and possess a dense, hard texture. Woods such as rosewood, hongmu (acidwood), and purple sandalwood can all be classified as redwood. The materials commonly used for small redwood inlaid silver pieces include purple sandalwood, ebony, chicken-wing wood, rosewood, and hongmu. Purple sandalwood features grain patterns resembling bristles, which take on an irregular shape—often referred to by people as “crab-claw纹.” New sandalwood has a color resembling a reddish-brown hue, while aged rosewood turns a dark, almost black shade due to years of oxidation. Aged rosewood does not fade, whereas new rosewood does. Although acid pear wood also exhibits similar grain patterns, they are less frequent and generally arranged in nearly straight lines. Among these woods, red acid-rosewood closely resembles rosewood in color; it boasts a hard, fine-grained texture and is commonly referred to as “old red wood.” When scraping some wood shavings from acid pear wood and burning them, a distinct sour smell is emitted. The grain of flower-rosewood is mostly black, relatively wide, coarser, and arranged in straight lines. The grain of chicken-wing wood is exceptionally vibrant, resembling rippling water or the colorful plumage of a peacock. Black chicken-wing wood has even more beautiful and vivid grain patterns than yellow chicken-wing wood, making it all the more prized.

　　◆Condition Assessment: As the saying goes, “Look at the overall image from afar; examine the artistry up close.” In other words, rosewood crafts must showcase exquisite craftsmanship and thoughtful creativity. There are three key aspects: First, craftsmanship—this includes both the mastery of woodworking techniques and the perfection of lacquer application. The quality of the lacquer finish is a crucial factor in assessing the overall condition of the piece. To achieve this, the lacquer layer must be uniformly thick and thin throughout, with no excess lacquer left at the seams; subsequent sanding must be done to perfection, leaving the lacquer surface free of any adhering particles or impurities. Second, whether the work’s content is original and innovative. High-quality rosewood small items should exhibit originality—meaning that the piece should incorporate innovation and variation. Third, the “spirit” of the work. Exquisite rosewood small items must possess “spirit”—which means that a piece not only has form but also captures an inner essence and vitality.

　　◆Collection and Value Assessment: The economic value of small redwood pieces is composed of several factors, including their historical significance, artistic merit, and market supply and demand. Among these factors, the level of craftsmanship has a significant impact on price.

       04 Select exquisite mahogany furniture.

     When purchasing rosewood furniture, the first thing you should do is choose a reputable, established rosewood furniture manufacturer with proven production capabilities. Be sure to verify the manufacturer’s production license, business license, and other relevant certificates to ensure its legitimacy. It’s also essential to research rosewood furniture manufacturers online—take a look at their websites. Sometimes, the quality of a website itself can reflect the manufacturer’s expertise and craftsmanship in producing rosewood furniture. Occasionally, you may encounter self-proclaimed sellers in the rosewood furniture market who claim to have heirloom rosewood furniture passed down through their families, valued highly but now being sold at a relatively low price due to financial difficulties within their households. In such cases, you must be especially cautious and careful. Before becoming a second-year student, never engage in private transactions with strangers.

    Second, acquire some basic knowledge of redwood identification. The preview we’ve provided earlier wasn’t for nothing—after all, you’re already somewhat familiar with the eight types of redwood specified in the national standard. It’s also essential to pay attention to the use of sapwood and fake veneers, because nowadays there are simply too many unscrupulous manufacturers out there.

     In addition, conventional mahogany furniture is categorized into three types: all-mahogany, mahogany with a mahogany veneer, and mahogany-faced. The amount of mahogany used decreases progressively across these categories. For instance, in mahogany-faced furniture, only a small portion—such as the exposed frames and crossbars—is actually made from solid mahogany. Because the quantity of mahogany used varies significantly, the prices can differ dramatically. Moreover, a large proportion of mahogany furniture actually uses sapwood. Therefore, when signing a contract, it’s essential to specify whether the furniture is made entirely of solid mahogany or only partially of mahogany, and whether sapwood has been used.

    With this, the first-year course of the Redwood Furniture Boutique Selection School has come to an end. Due to time constraints, we won’t ask any students to stand up and share their thoughts. Let me briefly summarize: The primary goal of the first-year students’ learning is—to learn how to protect themselves when purchasing redwood furniture. 5 Remember the eight categories—when buying furniture, you can easily fool the salespeople at the mahogany furniture store. And once you’ve bought your mahogany furniture, you can easily fool your relatives and friends (hehe). There’s a knack to signing contracts—don’t wait until the sheep are gone before you realize you need to mend the fence; by then, it’ll be too late to fix it.

    Most students can stop here—now you’re ready to head to a mahogany furniture store and start shopping for mahogany furniture. Just keep the tips mentioned above in mind, and you’ll pretty much be safe from being scammed.

     Students who are eager to pursue further studies, take a look at our exquisite rosewood furniture (Advanced Edition)—it’s waiting for you. Are you ready?

    05 Daily maintenance methods for the surface of mahogany furniture

    Rosewood furniture is considerably more valuable than other types of furniture—not only is it expensive, but it also requires particularly careful daily maintenance. Typically, households focus on maintaining the surface of rosewood furniture. Moreover, since the surface treatments of rosewood furniture vary, the maintenance methods differ accordingly.

    Redwood furniture that’s been waxed undergoes what could be described as “thousands of rubs and countless polishes” before it leaves the factory. Once the piece is finished, skilled artisans repeatedly—and countless times—polish it meticulously, using sandpaper to carefully smooth the surface of the mahogany furniture again and again. They thoroughly eliminate any roughness or imperfections in the wood itself, until the surface of the mahogany furniture begins to glow with a rich luster. Then, they apply the first coat of wax. After allowing sufficient time for the wood to fully absorb the wax, they proceed to re-polish the surface once more. This step is crucial: it removes any excess wax on the surface while ensuring that the wax deeply penetrates the wood’s grain, leaving the wood both bright and not overly dry. This process must be repeated many times, until the mahogany furniture exudes a moist, subtle, rustic, and elegant aura. Only when the furniture has reached this level of perfection can it be considered truly complete and ready for shipment.

    The way families care for waxed mahogany furniture also involves applying wax—but there’s an art to it. As the saying goes, “Too much is as bad as too little.” Applying wax too frequently can damage the wood. It’s best to wax your mahogany furniture three times a year—in March, September, and December—for optimal protection. Mahogany furniture is ideally maintained with beeswax, which can be readily purchased at street stalls in the antique furniture market or at specialized mahogany furniture stores. Generally, beeswax is produced by chemical manufacturers; there aren’t any particularly renowned brands, and it usually comes in simple block packaging.

    When applying wax, be sure to do so only after thoroughly removing all dust; otherwise, wax stains may form. It’s best to use a cotton cloth that’s neither completely dry nor soaking wet to gently wipe away accumulated dust from mahogany furniture, as using a cloth that’s too dry could cause abrasion and scratches. Surfaces of furniture that have already developed a patina should not be exposed to boiling water or come into contact with highly soluble liquids such as gasoline, as this could damage the patina. When applying wax, follow the principle of progressing gradually—from lighter shades to deeper ones, starting from specific spots and then spreading evenly over the entire surface.

    Here are two methods for waxing mahogany furniture at home. The first method involves softening floor wax, beeswax, or similar materials in the sunlight or near a stove. Then, use an old leather shoe brush to repeatedly rub and scrub the waxed surface. As you do this, the brush will become covered with countless tiny, melted wax particles. Next, take this brush—now saturated with wax particles—and repeatedly brush it over the mahogany furniture. This technique is known as “dry-shaking wax.” After being treated with “dry-shake wax,” reddish-brown furniture that had lost its luster instantly regains a radiant, glowing appearance—far more effective than even the best women’s cosmetics. You can also apply the purchased Bili Zhu wax directly onto the surface.

    Second, evenly apply wax to the surface of the mahogany furniture. Then, use a hairdryer to gradually heat the wax, causing it to melt. Once the entire surface is covered with liquid wax, let it sit for a while until the wax cools and re-solidifies. After that, use a cloth to rub back and forth across the surface, carefully removing any excess wax that has risen to the top. This method is relatively professional and somewhat challenging; if not done properly, it could inadvertently make the patina appear “new.” We do not recommend that amateurs or beginners attempt this method rashly. Applying varnish provides better protection for mahogany furniture than applying wax; generally, all you need to do is keep it clean. For daily maintenance, simply use a dampened, well-wrung-out gauze cloth to wipe away dust from your mahogany furniture. To maintain the luster of the varnish on your mahogany furniture, crush and peel walnuts, then wrap them in three layers of gauze and sew them together to create an oil-based polish. After applying this polish to the surface of your mahogany furniture, use another gauze cloth to remove excess oil and polish the surface to a shine. Avoid using chemical polishing agents, as they may cause the varnish to become sticky and damaged. For instance, while products like Bili Zhu can be used on waxed mahogany furniture, they are not suitable for varnished mahogany furniture, since Bili Zhu has a certain corrosive effect on the varnish.

    The blind spots on lacquered mahogany furniture are commonly found at the top and bottom of the pieces. For these unpainted areas, you can apply liquid wax to help protect the mahogany furniture and reduce the risk of cracking and warping.

If necessary, everyday-use rosewood furniture can also be repainted for maintenance. However, repainting is relatively difficult for the average person, so it’s recommended to hire a professional. Ideally, though, you should have the furniture repainted by a specialized rosewood manufacturer.

    06 Furniture “escapes the heat” There's a great trick.

    As the height of summer approaches, dry, stuffy air and intense ultraviolet rays pose a “threat” to the maintenance of mahogany furniture. Therefore, how to help these rosewood furniture pieces safely weather the summer through some clever and ingenious methods has become an urgent issue that owners of such furniture must address.

    Tip 1: Skillfully control changes in indoor temperature and humidity. In southern regions, where rainfall is relatively abundant, moisture prevention is the most critical factor for mahogany furniture. Traditional hardwood furniture typically lacks a lacquer finish and instead features only waxing; yet the hardwood itself contains moisture. When the air humidity is too low, the wood will shrink, while at high humidity it will expand. Therefore, mahogany furniture should be kept away from excessively damp areas such as basements to avoid mold growth and potential cracking or splitting of furniture components due to expansion. If you notice that the indoor humidity is relatively high, be sure to use your air conditioner regularly to dehumidify the space.

    Tip 2: Keep mahogany furniture away from heat sources. When arranging furniture, be sure to keep it at least about one meter away from any heat source. If the furniture is placed too close to a heat source, the moisture within the wood will evaporate excessively, causing the joints and tenons to shrink and leading to deformation of the tenons and cracking of the panels. Also, avoid placing furniture directly in front of large south-facing glass windows; prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can cause the furniture’s veneer to fade, detracting from its aesthetic appeal.

    Tip 3: Be careful when arranging items. When placing decorative objects such as porcelain and bronze pieces, exercise extra caution—ideally, use a soft cloth or cork垫 underneath them. Especially remind children not to scratch the furniture and never to bang hard objects against it. Avoid leaving excessively heavy items on the furniture surface for extended periods, particularly large televisions or large fish tanks, as prolonged weight-bearing could cause the furniture to warp.

    Tip 4: Don't let the furniture... “Non-breathable.” It’s also not advisable to place non-breathable materials such as plastic tablecloths or heavy glass plates on the tabletop. During the hot and humid summer months, if you cover your furniture with these non-breathable materials, their surfaces may discolor; in severe cases, the surfaces could even become moldy. You should apply wax to your furniture once a month to keep its surface smooth and moderately shiny. Of course, don’t wax too frequently—otherwise, you’ll end up blocking the wood’s tiny pores.

Tip 5: Be careful when cleaning furniture. When it’s time to clean furniture that has been in place and used for a long time, use a soft cotton cloth or a brush with soft bristles to wipe it down—avoid using metal brushes, hard-bristle brushes, or rough fabrics. Never use a wet cloth to wipe hardwood furniture, especially antique pieces. When wiping, you can lightly dab a small amount of wax onto the cloth and gently rub it back and forth along the wood grain.